Feeling the Heat in Istria

For the last six nights we’ve being staying on the Istrian Peninsula, for the first three nights in Rovinj and for the last three further south in Pula. Istria is apparently the largest peninsula on the Adriatic. With rolling hills, rocky beaches, beautiful old towns, clean water, an abundance of water-sports and sunsets to die for, it’s easy to see why Istria is a popular tourist destination. Although it’s very close to Slovenia, Italy and Austria, it’s mostly Germans who are holidaying in the area.

The Silver Machine is parked up in Pula, on a large campsite, Camping Arena Stoja, which is situated on a small peninsula on the outskirts of the city. Our pitch overlooks a bay which has a bar on a platform reached only by a long wooden bridge, and waterskiing goes on all day.

To reach the historic centre of Pula, you catch a no 1 bus from directly outside the gate and it’s only about a 15 minute journey. You can buy tickets online and use a QR code on your phone or you can pay the driver with cash or credit card so it’s very flexible.

Although there is evidence of a community living here for over three thousand years, as ever for this part of the world, it was the Romans who were first to really develop a significant presence here.…and their presence continues to be felt. There are a number of impressive structures dotted about the centre and you regularly stumble of bits of buildings on show in the city parks.

The Temple of Augustus was built in the 1st century AD and stands in the square that was once the site of the city’s Roman forum. The magnificent amphitheatre is the worlds sixth largest surviving Roman arena and is used as a music venue. The Twin Gate is one of 10 gates through which you could access Pula and was built in the 2nd century. Nearby we walked past parts of the wall which once surrounded the city. The Arch of the Sergians, these days guarding the entrance of a busy shopping thoroughfare, is much older and was built in the 1st century BC.

There are a number of very old Churches in Pula, and we had a look at a few. Interestingly, unlike many of the other churches we have viewed that are incredibly ornate these were all very minimalist. We got off the bus beside the 6th century Chapel of Mary Formosa to have a look at it. Unfortunately it was closed so we couldn’t see the mosaics it is known for. Ah well maybe next time. Luckily both the 13th century Church of St Francis and the 17th century Cathedral were open. The walls of the cloisters of St Frances were covered in Roman artefacts.

During the first world tunnels were dug under central Pula to protect the population from bombardment and as a means to move about the city safely. You can access some of the tunnels, which converge into a large room directly under the Citadel, from four different locations. From just off the large room a lift takes you up to the Citadel.

The roads were just too busy to feel comfortable going out for a bike ride so we went for a 5 mile hike instead around a headland just beyond the campsite. It was quite a hike. We followed a route, suggested by Komoot an activity app and was classified as intermediate difficulty, but wasn’t sure quite what to expect.

The first quarter of the walk was a rugged path which clung to the coastline and gave amazing views. For the second quarter, a machete would have been useful to clear the path as we headed up hill to the centre of the headland.

The biggest surprised though was kept for the second part of the walk where you were taken through a deserted military base, a leftover from when Croatia was part of Yugoslavia. It’s very atmospheric to the point of being a bit creepy. Finally just before the end of the walk we had to pass a military checkpoint with a guard who opened a side gate for us. This is the entrance to a naval base apparently but nothing is too obvious and he wasn’t very keen on me taking a picture of the barrier for the blog.

Rovinj is a really amazing place to explore and from the campsite it’s a very pleasant 2km walk. The old town used to be an island but the short gap to the mainland was filled in in the 17th century. The colourful houses seem to tumble down to the very edge of the sea and a warren narrow cobblestone alleys winds you through them.

The town is dominated by the Cathedral, and Bell Tower which was modelled on the one in St Marks Square in Venice. We named it the Bell Tower of Terror as the steps to the top were steep, wooden and very, very old and worn. It was basically a ladder which took you the rest of the way. Needless to say the views from the top just about made the white knuckle climb up worthwhile.

We went out for a excellent meal to one of the many quayside restaurants. A fantastic sunset added to the overall ambience and really brings out the colours of the houses

There are 3 marinas in Rovinj and a real mix of boats. By the size of some of the yachts it’s clear that this area is the playground of the rich as well as the poor. (like us) The large yacht, bow pictured, is for sale and can be yours for a snip at £12,000,000. In the distance you can see the Sea Cloud 11 moored, a large Clipper cruise ship which turned up one day disgorging its passengers into the town using a tender shuttling back and fore..

And yes , it’s been so hot we were forced to go in for a for a swim on a couple of occasions. After arriving in Istria in the rain, the weather has been absolutely beautiful. Almost completely blue skies, temperatures reaching 27°C and then of course those sunsets……..