Lucerne turned out to be a really amazing place. It is claimed to be the most beautiful city in Switzerland and one of the most beautiful in Europe, and it’s not difficult to see why. It is a striking medieval town, surrounded by impressive mountains, on the shores of scenic Lake Lucerne.
The colourful Aldstadt, is bordered by the Musegg Wall, a 16th century rampart, to the north and the the River Reuss to the south. It’s picturesque squares flanked by buildings covered in historical frescos are a unique feature.
You can walk along part of the Musegg wall and access four of its nine towers. The clock in the Zyt tower dates from 1535 and not surprisingly perhaps is the oldest in the city. We had the misfortune to arrive in the bell tower at exactly midday.
The wonderful Kapelbrücke and Spreuerbrücke, both roofed, wooden bridges, were built as part of the cities fortifications in the 14th and 15th centuries respectively and join the Aldstadt to the south bank of the river. Both have painted panels added in the seventeenth century.
The Lion Monument, according to the local guide book, is one of the worlds most famous monuments. It might only be us but to be honest we had never heard of it. Carved out of the rock face it commemorates the bravery of the Swiss Guards who died in combat in 1792. Apparently Mark Twain described the Lion of Lucerne as “the saddest and most moving piece of rock in the world.”
There were three churches recommended in the local guide book given to us when we arrived at the campsite. The Franziskirke, which was built towards the end of the 13th century, boasts a pulpit with the most elaborate ornamentation in Switzerland. The Jesuitenkirke established around 1666 was the first large baroque building to be built in Switzerland. And finally the Hofkirke with its lovely facade is Lucerne’s parish church.
On our last night we went out for a couple of beers and something to eat and ended up at the excellent Rathaus Brauerei, on the banks of the river. We ended up sitting next to a couple of local guys who spoke good English and were very pleasant to chat to. The food was good, the beer made on the premises even better, but at nearly £10 a pint you really have to feel flush before you come to Switzerland for a night out.
As in Venice we were keen to see Lucerne once darkness fell, and we were not disappointed. With the shimmering reflections doubling the impact, walking back to the bus stop along the river is really fantastic It’s was like you’d been transported to a different place entirely.
So we’re now in back in France, in Andlau, a village on La Route des Vins in the very heart of the Alsace region. It’s a very attractive village which, with nine different wine vendors and being completely surrounded by vineyards, exists only because of the wine industry. The residents are very friendly, without exception they say bonjour in passing, and the shop keepers all give you a cheery welcome as you enter their shop.
The Silver Machine landed in an new aire run by by the Camping-Car Park Organisation on the edge of the village, next to a leisure park. There are only 13 pitches and it’s full most nights but if you’re a member you can book ahead to secure a spot.
The weather is beginning to turn colder now and it has been a bit showery in the last couple of days. Luckily we have managed to get a couple of walks in since we got here. The first just around the village and the second a six mile round hike to a ruined castle which you can just see from the village.
It is an excellent walk which starts by zig zagging steeply up through the vineyards with some amazing views and finishes in woodland. There are some excellent views over the village and surrounding vineyards and the castle is well worth the walk.
We head off to Luxembourg next, about a three hours drive away. According to the weather forecast it’s not going to get much warmer than 10°C, so we’d better look the winter woolies out.
Adventures in the Silver Machine 